surfing, flow, waves, ocean, movement, adventure
Life often feels like a pendulum, swinging from one extreme to another. Like surfing, we move back and forth, seeking balance, until we eventually find our center. Yesterday, as I enjoyed the beach and a sunset, I bumped into…
During my recent trip to the south of France, I found myself staying at the home of Carwyn Williams, a former professional surfer from Wales. When I booked the place, I had no idea who he was—I was simply…
In my last surf competition in Morocco, I had a chance — one last wave, one final opportunity to turn the heat around and make the finals. The ocean offered it to me in the very last seconds. But…